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Donnini's Ciao Italia ReviewFine dining at the mallYour reviewer has long believed that restaurants located in shopping centres and at places of accommodation are questionable - the chance of the food being really great is less assured than at an independent restaurant. But my arrogant view has been given a rigorous shake recently. The more restaurants I try, the more I realize that some of the best are hidden in the most unlikely locations. Like the upper corner of a touristy shopping mall.
Donnini's, located upstairs at the Pier Marketplace, is one of the restaurants I never gave much thought to. But it has been around for years now and is always packed with smiling patrons tucking into their meals. Its central location in Cairns makes it a great place to ramp-up for a big night out - see a concert, hit up a nightclub, or stroll the esplanade. But its unremarkable position in the Pier is a drawback. The beaming noises from people on the ground floor of the Pier make Donnini's one of the loudest restaurants I have been to. And unfortunately most of the noise is not of it's own making. But maybe that is a Mediterranean characteristic that Donnini's has cunningly captured.
The licensed restaurant serves traditional Italian dishes that are cooked in an open kitchen so you can see everything that's going on. This is always a good indicator that the hygiene in the kitchen is of high standards. The food here is of the highest qualities, and is reflected in the prices. A main meal will set you back around $20-$25, but the meals are worthy of their price tag.
Donnini's has terrific breads. The focaccia is dusted with salt, garlic and rosemary, and makes a great starter. This is cooked in their pizza oven - about as traditional as you can get. As a main I had the roasted loin of veal with mushrooms and sage. The veal was delicate, coated with lovely gravy that enhanced the mushrooms. Accompanied with a glass of the house red wine, and I had a meal I couldn't pull myself away from. Even the giant fish hanging from the ceiling of the Pier Marketplace was eyeing off my meal with a longing look on his face.
Pizzas at Donnini's have thin crispy bases and an extensive range of toppings. I didn't have a pizza so I can't reliably confirm their deliciousness, but they looked fantastic and the face of the patrons consuming the round delicacies indicated the pizzas were very good. The next time I visit Donnini's I will definitely get myself a pizza.
Inside the restaurant, the owners have tried to give it as much Italian flavour as possible. The walls are painted with Italian motifs and the terracotta colours give it a warm feeling. But a glance over the fence barricading the Pier Marketplace from the restaurant reveals the giant hanging fish, the elevator, and all the other tourist paraphernalia. Ignore this, however, and you have a great restaurant where you can chat and laugh to your hearts content.
The night I was at Donnini's the restaurant was full, and the few waitresses worked very quickly ensuring that everyone was looked after. The service was quick, friendly and helpful, rounding off the entire experience and ensuring my return visit.
Donnini's has proven that restaurants in shopping malls can rank among the finest. Don't be a stickler like me and avoid it for that reason; you're missing out on a gem.
- Diner Diller
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Cairns Dining: A complete guide to Cairns restaurants
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